B5814 - Gertie's Draped Wiggle Dress

So given my general aesthetic, it should be no shock that I am a big fan of Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing.  (Who has two thumbs and got her book for Christmas?  This girl! Wiggle dress, here I come!)

So it should also come as no suprise that I was thrilled to attemt B5814, the draped wiggle dress created for Butterick. I really love this style and made it out of a green silk Vera Wang slipper satin purchased from Fabric Mart lo these many moons ago.

 

This dress involves a great deal of structure created through pleating and boning.

 

I have never quite figured out how to successfully do a FBA on anything other than a standard darted bodice.  So to get the appropriate fit, I cut a 22 on the front bodice peices and graded down to the 18 at the waist and cut a 18 on the shoulder and back sections. 

 

This structure means that the bodice is essentially a strapless dress with a cap sleeve attached.  

 

 The volume in the skirt is also created through pleats.  The pleating does create a bit of fluffiness in the lower stomach region, but it is largely covered by the front drape. 

 



 Sadly, on my version the back darts did not line up  (although the side seams and front darts lined up perfectly) so I ultimately decided to add a fabric belt with a bow that I centered over the drape.

 

To add to the christmas festiveness, I used red hem tape.

And because this dress is a bit low cut, I made a structured tank out of a green, navy and metallic brocade to fit under the dress and bring the neckline up to what some people may consider more respectable levels.  (Although I don't have an issue with the original cut, after all, what what is double-sided tape for?)

 

Happy Solstice, Merry Christmas, and a Very Happy New Year!