Making a Muslin and other Responsible Seamstressing

I have decided to tackle some high end tailoring.  To that end, I have started V8333 which includes stellar instructions by Claire Schaeffer, author of Couture Sewing Techniques and High Fashion Sewing Secrets.  Further inspired by a recent issue of Threads and an article about embracing the joys of slow sewing, I have decided to dedicate myself fully to technique with this project. 

This will be a change for me.  I am never one to let pursuit of the perfect blind me to the charms of "good enough."  Thus it is startling for me to realize that after four hours of work I have not even cut my fashion fabric.  Because before I cut into 100% wool suiting, I decided to make a muslin! (Cue ominous music).

I found a few yards of plain white cotton in my stash.  (I am not sure why I would have purchased such a thing and suspect I will find myself short a lining for a cotton sundress this summer.)  I only cut the body of the jacket.  Having read the directions prior to beginning my main concern was not practicing techniques, but rather perfecting the fit.  According to the pattern envelope I am a 22 at the bust, a 20 through the hip, and an 18 at the waist.  So I spent the evening assembling the bones of this classic suit jacket, size 20.

And I'm glad I did... While the fit of the garment as drafted wasn't terrible and would have resulted in a wearable garment it will be infinitely better with a few alterations. 

As per usual, I will be doing a full bust alteration.  This jacket nips in at the waist already so I don't think it will be necessary to take in the waist.  Additionally, I will be lengthening the entire pattern by a little over an inch.  While an easy alteration, it is not one I typically need to undertake for tops.  I am tall, but my height is in my legs and I have a proportionally short torso.  However, after careful consideration of my muslin, I think the fit will be improved and the jacket more flattering if it is a smidge longer. 

I started my alterations and will finish altering my paper pattern peices tomorrow.  (After I steal more scotch tape from work!) 



In the meantime I will enjoy my other project I undertook this evening... a delicious roast chicken!

Bon Appitit!