My progress has been particularly assisted by two references... Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket, and Couture Sewing Techniques. These books have been immeasurably useful in helping me navigate some of the hand-stitching techniques that I have not previously had the opportunity to practice.
So over the weekend/tonight (mainly tonight, I only worked maybe two hours the entire weekend) I finished through Step 18! Woohoo!
I used catchstitches to secure the interfacing to the pocket foldline and then stabilized the foldline with a bias cut organza strip.
Then I cut tape from the selvedge of a plain white cotton and used that as the bridle to stabilize the roll line. The tape is placed along the roll line. As per the directions I first basted down the center of the tape and then secured the tape with Fell Stitches.
My Fell Stitches are maybe not as neat as they could be, but it's the inside of the jacket and I was having some severe thread tangling issues tonight...
I then proceeded to padstitch the lapel. My padstitching didn't make pretty chevrons, but my understanding is that it does not much matter. The primary purpose of the padstitching is to attach the hair canvas interfacing and shape the lapel. Short, close stitches result in a firm lapel while long stitches placed further apart create a softer result. My less than beautiful stitching successfully achieves these my goal of soft shaping and cannot be seen from the back of the lapel so I am satisfied.
Finally I pressed the lapel, using a press cloth and everything! Look at me being dedicated! This has brought me through step 18. Tomorrow I tape the front edge (steps 19-24).